After the Deluge, Foxlair Trail is Open

We had some unbelievable rain this week, as many people did in New York State, southern Vermont, and western Massachusetts. Most streams here in the southern Adirondacks managed to overflow their banks at one point or other during the 2-3 day siege. Now the waters are settling down to a dull roar. Tomorrow morning, Friday, I'm heading out to check on a few trails that I'm pretty certain will be in fine shape for hikers this weekend.

Because the ruins of the estate that was once Foxlair sit high above the Sacandaga River, they were in no danger of being flooded. For those with a sense of adventure and an interest in history, an Adirondack Safari to Foxlair fits the bill. It's hard to believe that it's been just a little less than forty years since the NY State Department of Environmental Conservation gave the order to tear down the mansion and other estate buildings. Still, they could not erase the past. There are remnants of the stone foundation everywhere, several overgrown stone stairways, and rusting iron "objects" that still puzzle me as to their use.

The butterflies and birds will be active there after all the rain. Bring your binocs!
But, since it could still be damp underfoot, also bring your muck boots just in case!

Swamped by Rain, But July 4th Weekend Looks Good!

Our mountain road has been washed out by yesterday's deluge. According to my rain gauge, we had a minimum of 8 inches at our house yesterday. Last night the stream that had been trickling in a deep gully out back rose well over several feet to wash over the natural land bridge. Hiking was out of the question today. I'd just do damage to the trails. And many streams were unfordable. Heavy rains are forecast again for tonight and tomorrow morning.


I'm very worried about all the birds that are nesting now. Heavy rains are one thing, but we had numerous cloudbursts yesterday, which could have flooded some nests to the point where eggs and young were lost or destroyed. This scenario has been the case this spring for nesting loons in the area during other rainstorms.

Have you noticed that rainfall has been getting heavier and heavier? I guess you don't need to be a meteorologist to have observed that. But I'm not talking about this spring's rain being heavier than last spring's. Since the early 1970s, rainstorms have been producing heavier and heavier downpours, according to many U.S. climate studies.

Is it global warming? Many climatologists and meteorologists say it is. The warmer the land and air temperatures, the greater the amount of water that evaporates. With more water in the air, there's more cloudiness and hence, more rain. Not only that, but warmer air can actually hold more water than cold air. Sort of a double whammy.

Now, listen, I'm not the type who tries to search for the silver lining, believe me. But the road washout next to the swamp pushed sand into the water so that there's a little beach now. Sun is forecast for tomorrow afternoon, and if it shows its face, I'll take my Hornbeck boat over there and study dragonflies.

I Need to Climb a Mountain

Gore Mountain, from the ledge near our house
It's pouring buckets and has all day, though both Saturday and Sunday were beautiful. I've been itching to climb Vanderwhacker Mountain, but after the torrents of today, all the streams and creeks will be running over their banks down the mountain slopes of the Adirondacks tomorrow. Not the best time, but during the past two wet months, when is? Mind you, I don't mind rain, but right now we are in the midst of a cloudburst.

Yesterday I hiked with a family on the Moss and Swamp Trail. I was so glad that there were a multitude of things to see. Wild strawberries were everywhere, as were butterflies, dragonflies, frogs, and toads. We saw many deer tracks, of varying sizes, and had fun imagining what the deer were doing when they walked by. And the wildflowers--the woods and meadows are full of them. The children had never been on a nature walk before and I was stunned by how observant they were, their sharp eyes seeing things that I have missed. The big excitement was that they each found a feather, one from a bluejay, the other from a ruffed grouse.

Leaves of Three--What Can It Be?

Now I know everyone is going to shout, "Poison Ivy!" I thought so too, until I looked at the plant very closely. Notice the shapes of the leaves, and how they vary one from the other. I have seen this identical plant in a number of places over the past two weeks. Unlike poison ivy, it isn't vine-like, nor does it grow in clusters. It sits in the woods by itself, though ten feet away I might find another. Hmmm... I wonder.

Of course, the true test would be to, well, touch it. But I, being severely allergic to poison ivy, cannot make myself stretch my hand out. "Leaves of three, leave them be." You betcha. So here I am, puzzled. I need to consult an expert. I think I'll e-mail Evelyn Greene, the best Adirondack naturalist I know. What do you think?

Vanderwhacker Mountain

No, everyone, this isn't Sophie, but a photo taken by David Harrison of another intrepid golden atop Vanderwhacker Mountain last year. I've got to check the Vanderwhacker trail since I haven't traveled it this season, and I've been waiting for a day without the threat of thunderstorms.

Inspiring photo, isn't it? The views atop Vanderwhacker are supposed to be spectacular, especially of the High Peaks to the north. And there's a fire tower to climb, offering an even more colossal panorama. Although the trail up Vanderwhacker is about 5.8 miles round trip, it's not a severely steep climb which most adults and older children in good shape will enjoy.

Not a Moose, But White Admirals and Red-Spotted Purple Hybrids

Blue skies and dry air in the North Country--a perfect day to carry a canoe into Cod Pond. Our moose was nowhere to be found, but we pondered on a lone loon for awhile, wondering if he or she had a mate, and if so, was there a nest or young ones? Based on our observations, it appears that the loon is single and perhaps a temporary visitor to the pond. We also found otter scat on top of a number of rocks in reedy, grassy areas, but it wasn't likely we'd see one at midday. Have to get up before five to get there early enough to see otters.

What I did find were lots of butterflies--hybrids of White Admirals and Red-Spotted Purples. They are the same species, though Red-Spotted Purples tend to inhabit the southern U.S. and White Admirals are found in southern Canada and the very northernmost sections of the eastern U.S. In between these two regions is an area where both varieties can be found, and they often hybridize, sharing traits of each variety.


I found at least a dozen or more sitting in the ashes of an old campfire. Because they all blend in well with this background, they are hard to see in this photo. But if you look carefully at the top, you'll notice the broad white band on these black butterflies and the marginal row of blue dashes. These are traits of White Admirals. But, on others, notice the many reddish spots that are more characteristic of Red-Spotted Purples. It's frustrating to be a student of butterflies and not an expert. If anyone knows anything more about these butterflies, please comment.

Round Leaf Sundew--A Carnivorous Plant

Sunday I was paddling in a wonderfully remote pond at a high elevation. Although the weather was in the high eighties, you would never have known it at this pond which cooled us with its breezes. Cookie was teaching me more about dragonflies, one of my passions, and as we paddled around, we came across a log with an unusual plant growing on top of it. Its common name is Round Leaf Sundew, and it's an insectivorous plant. One of the plants we examined had caught a moth. Cookie says that although the plant has chlorophyl, it needs to capture insects to get enough nitrogen to survive.

Heads Up on the Weekend Weather:As of this evening, the National Weather Service is forecasting partly sunny weather for the Gore Mountain Region on both Saturday and Sunday. Call now to reserve your weekend Adirondack Safari!

A Chance Encounter with Wildlife--Wowee!

Mike, my friend and New York State Licensed Guide, were hiking today in the Siamese Ponds Wilderness. As we approached a pond, I pointed out the dozens and dozens of dragonflies that love to congregate on a huge rock that lies in the sun. Just as I was doing so, Mike shouted, "What's that? Why, it's a Moose!" Even though my camera was hanging around my neck, my fingers fumbled to catch some shots as I watched said juvenile moose lumber out of the reeds toward the woods. Yet I managed to snap five pictures with a very slow digital camera. I zoomed in as far as I was able, and still the moose appears small in all the photos. Of course, he or she wasn't full-grown, probably only about two years old with mere buds where antlers will be one day. Still!!! My first sighting of a moose in the Adirondacks. A sterling moment.



The rest of the morning Mike and I discussed our plans to carry our boats in early Wednesday morning, to further explore the pond and its tributaries, and, of course, to try to observe the moose. The only thing that has me worried is the carry. It's a mile and it's uphill. Ugh! I'm a veteran all-out hiker and climber, but a quiet paddler with no fondness for portage. But Mike has convinced me we must, after I persuaded him he should cancel his doctor's appointment. Wednesday is the only dry weather day this week, and we will spend all of it--out there. Cool.

A Wilderness Hike to Sleeping Beauty's Castle

Friday marked my second hiking excursion to Foxlair, the site of the ruins of an extravagant estate of the early twentieth century. I couldn't help feeling like the prince in the fairy tale as I climbed over dozens of fallen trees and bumbled my way through vines and saplings along an overgrown trail that leads to Richard Hudnut's former wonderland in the old Oregon Valley along the Sacandaga River. Although there is a guidebook or two from the early 1990s that describes the route, I found the instructions to be of little use because nothing is marked, the written directions are maddeningly vague, and a forest is now flourishing on the site. What an adventure then--by trial and error to search and search for the ruins.

On my latest trip I concentrated on picking my way through the debris and puzzling over what remains--a battered stone foundation, stone stairways leading to the river, pipe fittings, and iron gates. I've been uncovering the history of Richard Hudnut and Foxlair at home in several books and I long to hunt down the descendents of some of the people who worked there.

All in all, a hiking adventure to Foxlair is perfect for people who love a hands-on approach to uncovering Adirondack history. It's beautiful country and because of its proximity to the Sacandaga River, is ideal for birdwatching (especially warblers), hunting for wildflowers and butterflies. A visit to an active beaver lodge is also close by.

Crane Mountain

Yesterday I hiked up Crane Mountain to capture perhaps my last chance to see all the pink lady's slippers that grace the trails there. I chose the long route up, which is less steep and which provides the best views apart from the summit. I like it because fewer people choose it and there's so many more birds, wildflowers, and other nature to see.

I was extremely surprised by how poorly marked the long route is right now. On the steeps, where the trail is mostly rock outcroppings, the lack of markers is definitely a hazard. Maybe the rangers haven't had time to replace markers that have disappeared over the winter. But to people who don't know the mountain and don't have a topographical map, soloing would be pretty frustrating and dangerous. When I started Adirondack Safaris, I thought that I wouldn't guide my clients up Crane Mountain because it's so heavily traveled and has a reputation for being well marked. After yesterday's climb, I am putting the Crane Mountain long route back on my roster of offerings. It's beautiful and the views all round are spectacular. And, of course, there's the added delight of Crane Mountain Pond near the top. It's a fun, challenging climb for older children and teens, not too difficult for most adults in good health, and the opportunities to experience the natural world abound.

When I neared the summit, I startled a big buck that went crashing off into the woods. I was amazed to see one there because vegetation is much more sparse and not really suitable to feed an animal with as voracious an appetite as he undoubtedly has.

I'll get a photo up of Crane as soon as there's a clear sky!

Peaked Mountain

Monday, a beautiful day after days of wet and blankets of clouds, I drove up to Thirteenth Lake to hike to Peaked Mountain in the Siamese Ponds Wilderness. The lake was quiet and the loon pair was out, visible from my binoculars. Halfway or so down the lake, I turned away from the shore to take the trail that follows Peaked Mountain Brook to Peaked Mountain Pond and its mountain. I made a mental note that the folks I guide will love following this majestic cascade of water that rushes downhill toward Thirteenth Lake.

The trail is a steady yet gradual uphill climb that eventually leads to a string of three beautiful beaver meadows, each of them unique. If I had time and a client fascinated by beavers, I'd suggest that we put our packs down and pause by the beaver dam while we sit still and wait for some beaver activity. On the East Branch of the Sacandaga late last week, my time was rewarded with sights of a beaver having a jolly time swimming near his lodge. Well, maybe he was working, but it looked to me as though he was just paddling around, enjoying the sunny day.


When I reached the shore of Peaked Mountain Pond, I found a rock to sit on. I was completely alone in this wilderness. For acres and acres around me there was not another single human. For me, there's nothing that can compare with the experience of sitting still, listening, watching, and reflecting on the moment in a pristine setting.

I moved on to take the steep trail up the mountain, which came as a shock after the gradual incline I'd been hiking. But the views were worth it. Sensational views of the High Peaks to the North and mountains to the west.

Clintonia Borealis or Blue-Bead Lily

Suffering from a Sun Deficit?
Take a Hike!
I've been feeding my sun-starved soul with long, uphill walks to keep my legs, lungs, and spirits in shape. The woods are as soaked as an overloaded sponge these days, and it's making travel a bit tricky. But tomorrow I'm heading out on the trail regardless of obstacles. I need to be out in the wilderness, where I can see and study the June wildflowers before they disappear. I'll bring two pairs of boots--the Muck Boots and hiking boots, so I don't destroy (or lose) the latter in a pool of mud. All we need is a few dry sunny days and the trails will be back to normal. Why are the weather people always saying it will be better next week or next weekend?

Last Tuesday, June 6, was a gorgeous day. Mike and I hiked up Goodnow Mountain In Newcomb before the summer crowds take over. Goodnow is great for strengthening knee muscles because the steep ascents are followed by more gradual inclines. And there are some great views of the High Peaks. It's a fun, aerobic climb with incredibly well-maintained trails.